What the [temporary] closing of elBulli really means

If you're a foodie, then you've heard by now that the best chef in the world is closing shop for 2012 and 2013. If you're not a foodie, let me summarize Ferran Adria quickly: he's the best chef in the world. He thinks about food like no one else, and he is as brilliant as any artist you can imagine. He is the Picasso of the culinary arts. This may seem like an overstatement, but it is just reality. His methods were highly guarded secrets, but any glimpse into his madness, like the elBulli 2003-2004 cookbook, are so highly sought after that many a chef will happily pay $200+ for a chance to learn from the master. He changed the life of Grant Achatz. Hell, he changed my perspective on cooking forever, shifting it from sustenance and work to pure joy and expression.

But now he will be gone for 2 years. What does it mean? Well, it means a few things. First, if we are to believe the press release, the 2 year absence will result in an encyclopedia of knowledge that Adria has built up in over 30 years of experience. Needless to say, that will be the most sought after book of all time. Sorry, Heston. Second, this is an opportunity. For Grant Achatz. For Heston Blumenthal. For Thomas Keller. They weren't going to surpass el Bulli on S. Pellegrino's 50 Best in the World list. They just aren't in the same league. (Keller's French Laundry had the title from 2003-2004; The Fat Duck had the title in 2005; elBulli has had the title ever since.) Now, though, they will have a chance. Will they take it?

Only time will tell. My money is on Blumenthal. But Achatz is experiencing quite a ride, and it wouldn't be shocking to see him push all bounds. The usual criticism lodged at Achatz (if it is lodged at all) is that he simply doesn't take enough chances--he goes so far, then pulls back. Well, Grant, the ball's in your court.